Gumbo Cheese Fries

Crispy seasoned fries smothered in a rich, spicy gumbo loaded with shrimp, chicken, and andouille — then blanketed with melted cheese. This is next-level loaded fries.

Gumbo Cheese Fries

Prep: 30 min · Cook: 45 min · Total: 1 hr 15 min · Serves: 4 · Difficulty: Medium · Rating: 5/5 (119 reviews)

INSPIRED BY

Flyaway Brewing — Little Rock, AR

Featured on Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives

Inspired by Flyaway Brewing in Little Rock, AR — a DDD featured craft beer joint that decided gumbo was too good to stay in a bowl. Ladling spicy, shrimp-and-sausage gumbo over a pile of crispy cheese fries is a crossover move that shouldn't work on paper and is completely, irresistibly perfect in reality.

Story

It took me about forty minutes to find Flyaway Brewing in Little Rock, mostly because I missed the turn twice, and I walked in expecting a beer and walked out a convert to the idea of gumbo over fries. They ladle a spicy shrimp-and-sausage gumbo over a pile of crispy fries blanketed in melted cheese, which on paper sounds like a dare and in practice is one of the more coherent things I've eaten on a bar stool. The fries underneath were still crisp at the edges. That's not an accident. The whole dish stands or falls on the roux, and the roux is where impatience kills people. You whisk flour and oil over medium heat for a solid twenty to twenty-five minutes, constantly, scraping the bottom, until it turns the color of peanut butter going toward an old penny. You cannot walk away. The second a roux smells burnt or shows black flecks, it's done and you start over, because a scorched roux poisons the whole pot with bitterness. The second technique point is the shrimp. They go in for the last three or four minutes, full stop. Shrimp cook fast and turn to rubber pellets if you let them ride along in a simmering pot. Pull them off heat the instant they curl and turn pink. And the holy trinity, onion, celery, and bell pepper, goes in right after the roux hits color, all at once, to cook in the heat of the roux. For the fries to survive, cook them past the point you think is enough, until they have real structural integrity, then cheese them and broil before the gumbo ever touches them. This is loud food and it doesn't apologize. Eat it fast, with hot sauce, before the bottom layer waves a white flag. Keep a glass of water nearby while you stir the roux, not to add to the pot but to remind yourself to stay put; a roux burns in the ten seconds you turn away to check your phone. Cajun seasoning blends vary wildly in salt, so add it gradually and taste, because a heavy-handed pour can wreck the whole pot. Andouille brings smoke and fat that thin the line between this and a proper gumbo, and the chicken thighs hold up better than breast in the long simmer. Broil the cheese onto the fries on cast iron so the platter stays hot and the bottom fries keep their crunch a few minutes longer under the gumbo.

By Theo

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. Start the roux: heat oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add flour and whisk constantly, scraping the bottom — you're going for a deep peanut butter brown color, about 20-25 minutes of patient stirring. Don't walk away. A burnt roux means starting over.
  2. Once the roux hits that perfect dark amber, add the onion, celery, and bell pepper all at once — the 'holy trinity' of Louisiana cooking. Cook 5 minutes until softened, stirring to coat in the roux.
  3. Add sliced andouille sausage and diced chicken thighs. Cook 3-4 minutes until the chicken starts to color.
  4. Slowly pour in the chicken broth, whisking as you go to prevent lumps. Add Cajun seasoning. Bring to a simmer and cook 20 minutes until the gumbo thickens and the chicken is cooked through.
  5. Stir in the shrimp during the last 3-4 minutes — they cook fast and get rubbery if overdone. Pull them off heat the moment they curl and turn pink.
  6. Cook your fries according to package directions until maximum crispy — you need structural integrity under all that gumbo. Spread them on an oven-safe platter or cast iron, cover with pepper jack cheese, and broil 2 minutes until melted and bubbling.
  7. Ladle the hot gumbo generously over the cheese fries. Serve immediately with hot sauce and green onions. This is loud food and it doesn't apologize.

Chef Tips

Cook's Notes

View this page on Tastelicious →